Dyno day tomorrow, guess-timates?

Headed for the dyno at 6am. Looking for 600, anything over is a bonus.  

460 D1VE block, bored .060",  472" CID
balanced rotating assembly
2YABC crank with King bearings
Eagle H-beams
Carl’s custom dual flycut forged Probe pistons (P51 or SCJ) 15cc dish
Dave Freelander’s A429 heads from the “Cheapskate” build in the proven builds section
(391/200cfm and cut to 62cc) Should be 11.5:1 according to my math
.641/.677 SFT custom grind cam from Scott Johnson, 261/274 duration
PRW stainless 1.73 roller rockers and stud girdles
Motorsport “victor” intake re-drilled for a 1050, not ported at this point
1050 dominator carb
14 x 4" air cleaner with K/N xtreme top.
MSD dizzy and 6AL
PRW electric water pump
Canton 6qt street/strip pan for a fox body
canton windage tray
Melling HV oil pump and ARP pump shaft.
Hooker super comp LT headers, 2" primaries with 3.5" collectors.

612hp 580tqu

i think you will be surprised

im going 660 HP

This dyno is conservative - everyone who uses it says that about it because the HP/weight and ET's are usually dead close. I just want it running and no leaks.

651........

richter69 wrote:651........

652

Idk what itll make but as long as you leave w more power than you got there with... and everything in one piece id say it was a great day!

dirt_worker wrote:Idk what itll make but as long as you leave w more power than you got there and everything in one piece id say it was a great day!

Exactly. This is also my cousin's first trip to a dyno. This place is in a barn behind a little farm house 1hr and 45 minutes from here...But when you see what's going on inside it's mind blowing... blown BBC's to stock/super stock 426 hemi's  ....There are acre's of carrots growing behind the barn too...LOL

641

BigRigTech wrote:This place is in a barn behind a little farm house 1hr and 45 minutes from here...But when you see what's going on inside it's mind blowing... blown BBC's to stock/super stock 426 hemi's  ....There are acre's of carrots growing behind the barn too...LOL

Typical farmer.

640 hp

That's the best part - he isn't a farmer....LOL...Just lives there.  

The verdict is in - 560hp at 6000 and 560ftlbs at 4600. A little lower than I expected but it sounds good. Very warm and humid here today so that didn't help. The cam break in went well, filter was clean. Had to put 10L of oil in it to make her happy as the pan is bigger then we thought. 38 degrees of timing, 96/96 in the 1050, she wanted more jet over the stock 88/88 jetting. It picked up 3hp with the 14x 4 air cleaner. We had to use their 2" headers (3" collectors) as my 2" super comps were hitting the BH on the dyno, my collectors are 3.5" so it might have cost me a tiny bit up top.

We started at 6qts and had to add 4qts to keeping the oil pressure from falling off at the upper rpm. She's pumping it all up top and not draining back as fast as it's pumping. It's the same HV pump I had in it all along. The notched lifters are likely bleeding off a little more PSI than I like so Al said to run 20w-50 in it. I had 10w-30 break in oil in it. He said to lower the pickup a little too the next time the pans off. We made 10 pulls, just one tiny water leak to fix that I fought last year too. In the end it's up 85hp and 60ftlbs over what my old combo was which seems a little low to me considering all that I changed but it is what it is. I'm going to have the intake ported next winter. So either this combo sucks or the old one was better than I thought...LOL

Interesting.  Would definitely have guessed higher than that given the sum of its parts.

Would think it would make peak at a higher rpm with those duration numbers and a 1050.

It's called a "stingy" dyno by most. I've yet to hear anyone complain that their car won't run the number it should with the HP put down at A&J.

Cam and compression are holding it back.... Also some power in the ring pack.

Oil pan and some widage issues are costing you some power too. Did you put a tray in it? Need to work on the return issue too.

13:1 with an XR292 roller those heads on mine did 681hp on Mike Phillipd dyno.

It all adds up.

There is a canton mesh tray in it. I never had a drain back issue before. This is the same pump, cam bearings and pushrods/lifters that I had before. Mains are .003 and the rods are .002. Pickup clearance is about 3/8 or 7/16. Al said he always welds 3/16 key stock to the bottom of the pickup and sets it on down to the pan.

The oiling situation jumps out at me too. What is the lobe separation on the cam? I don't recall reading that spec.

Is the cam installed as recommended?

CDMBill wrote:The oiling situation jumps out at me too. What is the lobe separation on the cam? I don't recall reading that spec.

Looks like 110 1/2 I would have ground it on a 107 or 108.

You might need more valve spring or something?

Did you try some lash loops and see how it moved?

That thing should be peaking higher with that duration and the heads that you have.

IDT-572 wrote:

CDMBill wrote:The oiling situation jumps out at me too. What is the lobe separation on the cam? I don't recall reading that spec.

Looks like 110 1/2 I would have ground it on a 107 or 108.

Me 2......

We checked the springs after the cam break in, 160 on the seat at 1.900 installed height and 380 INT/420exh over the nose. A little high in my experience for a solid flat cam but Al said it would be ok with good oil. The cam is in straight up, I don't have a degree wheel. I'm not to concerned about the amount of oil it needed, once I got it home and looked at everything along with some measurements I can see why it needed so much. As for the oil pressure, I tried the drill deal again with the same 10w-30 oil still in it, gauges in the front and rear of the block. 70+psi with the air drill turning pretty slow against the pump. The dyno computer oil pressure was low the instant it started and I can't understand how that could be at 2000rpm with the same oil cold as it sits in my shop showing 70psi or more. 

I'd make sure the oil pick-up isn't too close to the pan for kicks and giggles. Just using masking tape around the pick-up and stick some silly putty on it with a little oil. Then re-install the pan and put slight pressure on the pan area. Remove and mic the putty.

I would definitely think the heads are capable of making more power!

I did that when I put it together, it was about 7/16" off the bottom. I'm putting the engine in this week, should be at the track in two weeks to see what it does.